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Air Source Heat Pump Buyer’s Guide: 12 Tips Before You Buy (2026)

Laura Bennet

Written By:

Laura Bennet

Home Energy & Sustainability Editor

Tom Reynolds

Reviewed By:

Tom Reynolds

Business Energy Specialist

1 fact checks verified
Prices verified Mar 2026
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Buying an air source heat pump is one of the biggest home improvement decisions you’ll make in 2026. With the £7,500 Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) grant and 0% VAT, there’s never been a better time — but rushing into the wrong system, installer, or contract can cost thousands. If you’re still weighing up whether a heat pump makes financial sense, our analysis of whether heat pumps are worth it breaks down the long-term economics. Here are 12 things every UK homeowner should know before committing.

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Key Takeaways
  • Collect at least 3 written quotes, each based on a physical site visit - never accept a quote based solely on property size without a heat loss calculation
  • Insulate your home FIRST before sizing the heat pump - a well-insulated house needs a smaller (cheaper) unit and costs 30–40% less to run annually
  • Check the installer is MCS-certified - mandatory for the £7,500 Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant and most local authority funding
  • Ground source costs 50% more than air source to install - but delivers higher efficiency (COP 4.0+ vs 3.0+) and lower running costs long-term
  • Budget £12,000–£18,000 for air source before the BUS grant - net cost of £5,000–£11,000 after the £7,500 government contribution

1. Always Get at Least 3 Quotes

Heat pump installation quotes vary by 30–50% between installers. Getting 3 quotes from MCS-certified installers is the single best way to avoid overpaying.

The air source heat pump market has grown rapidly since the BUS grant launched in 2022, and installer pricing has not standardised. Our air source heat pump cost guide breaks down exactly where that money goes. A system that one company quotes at £14,000 may be priced at £9,500 by another — for comparable equipment. The difference often comes down to installer margin, the brand they are tied to, local competition, and whether they are quoting for the work or upselling unnecessary extras.

Why quotes vary so much: Labour costs differ significantly by region (London and the South East typically run 20–30% higher). Some installers bundle in third-party services like electrical work or underfloor heating that another company handles in-house. Equipment mark-up also varies — a Mitsubishi Ecodan from a manufacturer-tied installer may cost 15% more than the same unit from an independent.

What to compare when you have 3 quotes in hand:

Comparison PointWhat to Look ForRed Flag
Total installed costAll-in price including VAT, groundwork, cylinderQuote excludes electrical or pipework costs
Equipment brand & modelSpecific model number, not just brand nameVague “leading brand” description
Warranty tierYears covered, whether via accredited installer schemeOnly 2-year standard warranty offered
BUS grant handlingInstaller submits application on your behalfYou are asked to apply yourself
Installation timelineStart date, completion estimate (typically 2–3 days)No written timeline provided
Site survey includedFull room-by-room heat loss calculationQuote provided without visiting the property

The site survey is non-negotiable. Any installer who quotes without visiting your property — even with photos — cannot accurately size your heat pump. An undersized system will struggle to heat your home in winter; an oversized one cycles on and off inefficiently, reducing lifespan and increasing electricity bills. Both are expensive mistakes.

2. Only Use MCS-Certified Installers

MCS certification is mandatory for the £7,500 BUS grant and ensures your installation meets quality standards. Check mcscertified.com before signing anything.

The Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS) is the UK’s quality standard for renewable energy installations. Without an MCS-certified installer, you cannot access the Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant — that’s £7,500 you will lose. More importantly, MCS certification means the installer has demonstrated competency, holds adequate insurance, and is subject to quality audits.

What MCS certification means in practice: Installers must pass technical assessments, maintain ongoing training records, and agree to MCS’s Code of Conduct. They are subject to unannounced audits and customer complaints can be escalated to MCS. Since 2023, installers must also complete MCS 020, an installation standard that covers system design, commissioning, and handover documentation — including the Benchmark Logbook, which you need for warranty purposes.

How to verify: Go to mcscertified.com/find-an-installer and search by postcode. You can filter by technology (heat pumps) and see how long they have been certified. Do not accept a certificate copy from the installer as sole proof — check the live database yourself.

Umbrella schemes: Several major heat pump manufacturers operate MCS umbrella schemes, where approved installers work under the manufacturer’s collective MCS licence. Vaillant’s Advance installer network and Daikin’s D1 scheme are the two largest. Installers under these schemes are audited more frequently and often receive additional technical training. If choosing a Vaillant or Daikin system, ask whether the installer is part of the respective scheme.

Good to Know

Always verify MCS certification on the official database — not just the installer’s marketing materials. Without it, you cannot claim the BUS grant and your installation has no quality guarantee.

3. Insulate First, Heat Pump Second

Improving your home’s insulation before installing a heat pump can reduce the size (and cost) of system you need by 30–50%.

A heat pump is only as efficient as the building it is heating. Heat pumps work best in well-insulated homes where they can maintain a steady low-temperature output rather than fighting against heat loss through walls, roof, and floors. Investing in insulation before installation reduces the heat loss figure that determines your heat pump size — and a smaller heat pump costs less to buy and less to run.

The UK government’s Great British Insulation Scheme and ECO4 programme offer free or subsidised insulation for eligible households. Even if you do not qualify, the return on investment from insulation is typically faster than the heat pump itself.

Priority order for insulation improvements:

Insulation TypeTypical CostImpact on Heat LossPriority
Loft insulation (top up to 270mm)£300–£40025% reduction✓ Highest
Cavity wall insulation£500–£1,00020–35% reduction✓ High
Draught-proofing (doors, windows, floors)£100–£3005–10% reduction✓ Quick win
Underfloor insulation£500–£2,00010–15% reductionMedium
Solid wall insulation (external)£8,000–£22,00030–40% reductionOnly if other options done

Start with loft insulation: it is the cheapest, fastest, and highest-impact upgrade available to most UK homes. If you have an uninsulated loft, improving from 0mm to 270mm of mineral wool can reduce your annual heat demand by roughly a quarter — potentially dropping you from a 10kW to an 8kW heat pump, saving £500–£1,000 on installation cost alone.

Good to Know

Do your loft and cavity wall insulation first. Not only does this reduce the heat pump size you need, it also improves the efficiency (SCOP) of whatever system you install. Order matters.

4. Understand the BUS Grant Timeline

The £7,500 BUS grant runs until March 2028, and 0% VAT ends March 2027. Installing before the VAT deadline saves an extra £500–£750.

The Boiler Upgrade Scheme is the UK government’s primary incentive for residential heat pump adoption. Since its increase to £7,500 in October 2023, it has significantly reduced the net cost of installation for most households. However, understanding the timelines and conditions is essential — there are several ways the grant can be delayed or lost entirely.

How the BUS grant application works: Your MCS-certified installer applies for the voucher on your behalf through Ofgem’s online portal before the installation begins. Once approved (typically within a few days), the voucher is issued and the installer redeems it as part of their payment — you simply pay the net amount. You do not handle the £7,500 directly.

The 120-day completion window: Once a BUS voucher is issued, the installation must be completed within 120 days. If work overruns — due to delays in equipment delivery or scheduling — the voucher can expire. Ask your installer to confirm they can complete within this window before they apply.

The 0% VAT deadline: Since April 2022, air source heat pump installations have been zero-rated for VAT in the UK. This was originally a temporary measure and is currently confirmed until 31 March 2027. A typical £12,000 installation at 20% VAT would cost £2,400 more. Even if the BUS grant extends beyond 2027, losing the VAT relief represents a significant additional cost. If you are considering a heat pump, installing before March 2027 locks in both incentives.

Good to Know

The BUS grant ends March 2028 and 0% VAT ends March 2027. Installing before the VAT deadline saves £500–£750 on top of the grant. Don’t wait until 2027 — installer diaries fill up fast near deadlines.

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5. Don’t Oversize Your Heat Pump

An oversized heat pump wastes money upfront and cycles inefficiently. A proper heat loss calculation ensures you get exactly the right size.

Oversizing is the single most common installation mistake in the UK heat pump market. Surveys by the Heat Pump Association suggest that a significant proportion of installed systems are larger than the property requires — often because installers use rules of thumb rather than proper calculations, or because they are upselling larger (more expensive) units.

Why oversizing happens: Many installers quote based on floor area rather than a full heat loss calculation. A 120m² house might be quoted a 10kW system based on square footage, when a proper BS EN 12831 heat loss calculation would show it only needs 7kW after insulation improvements. Some installers also add an excessive “safety margin” — bumping a 6kW requirement up to 8kW “just in case” — which benefits their margin without benefiting you.

Impact of an oversized heat pump: A heat pump that is too large for its load short-cycles — switching on and off rapidly rather than running in long, efficient steady-state periods. This reduces the Seasonal Coefficient of Performance (SCOP), increases electricity consumption, and causes accelerated wear on the compressor. A heat pump running at 40% load constantly will underperform a correctly sized unit running at 80% load, every time.

What to demand: Ask every installer for a room-by-room heat loss calculation in accordance with BS EN 12831. This is a legal requirement under MCS standards for all BUS grant installations. If an installer cannot produce this document, they are not compliant with MCS requirements regardless of their certification status.

Good to Know

Demand a BS EN 12831 room-by-room heat loss calculation. A correct sizing is more important than brand or price. An oversized unit will cost more to run every year for 15–20 years.

6. Check Your Radiators Before Installation Day

Heat pumps run at lower temperatures than gas boilers. Most homes need some radiator upgrades — budget £100–£300 per radiator replaced.

A gas boiler typically heats water to 70–80°C. An air source heat pump, running efficiently, delivers water at 35–45°C — roughly half the temperature. This matters because radiators are sized assuming a certain flow temperature: a radiator designed for 70°C water will output significantly less heat when fed with 40°C water from a heat pump.

The good news is that not every radiator in every home needs replacing. Whether your existing radiators are adequate depends on how well-insulated your home is, how large the radiators are relative to the room, and what flow temperature your heat pump is configured to run at.

When existing radiators work fine: If your home is well-insulated and your current radiators are larger than the minimum required output (your installer’s heat loss calculation will reveal this), you may not need to change them. Many homes built after 2000 already have oversized radiators relative to their heat load, precisely because builders fitted them with inefficient boilers in mind.

Radiator upgrade costs: Standard double-panel convector radiators suitable for heat pump operation cost £60–£200 for the unit itself. Fitting typically adds £80–£150 per radiator. Budget £100–£300 per room where a radiator swap is needed. For a 3-bed semi needing 5 new radiators, allow £500–£1,500 on top of the heat pump quote.

Underfloor heating (UFH) is ideal: If you are doing a major renovation alongside the heat pump installation, underfloor heating is the most efficient distribution system for a heat pump. UFH runs at 30–35°C, perfectly matched to a heat pump’s operating range, and distributes heat evenly without the need for large radiators.

Good to Know

Ask your installer to check every radiator as part of the heat loss survey. Get a written list of which rooms need upgrades and what the cost will be — this should be included in the installation quote, not added as a surprise on the day.

7. Choose the Right Refrigerant

R290 (propane) is the most future-proof refrigerant with a GWP of just 3, compared to 675 for R32. F-Gas regulations are phasing down R32 and R410A from 2025 onwards.

The refrigerant inside your heat pump is the working fluid that transfers heat from outside air to your home. Most homeowners never think about it — but which refrigerant your system uses has significant implications for its long-term running costs, servicing availability, and environmental impact.

R290 vs R32 vs R410A: The European F-Gas Regulation (and the UK’s retained version) is progressively restricting high global warming potential (GWP) refrigerants. R410A (GWP 2,088) has already been banned in new equipment in the EU. R32 (GWP 675) faces quota restrictions from 2025 onwards. R290 (propane, GWP 3) is exempt from all F-Gas restrictions and is freely available as a natural refrigerant.

RefrigerantGWPF-Gas StatusKey Risk
R410A2,088Banned in new EU equipmentSupply restrictions, rising service costs
R32675Quota restrictions from 2025Increasing refrigerant price over time
R290 (propane)3Exempt — no restrictionsRequires F-Gas exempt servicing (wider availability)

Why this matters for resale and long-term servicing: If you install an R32 system in 2026 and it develops a refrigerant leak in 2032, replacing the gas may be significantly more expensive due to supply constraints. Resale value could also be affected if buyers become more aware of refrigerant restrictions. R290 systems avoid this risk entirely.

R290 brands available in the UK: Vaillant’s aroTHERM Plus range uses R290 and is widely regarded as the benchmark R290 system for UK residential properties. Bosch (compress 7000i), Panasonic (T-CAP series), and Mitsubishi (Ecodan R290) have all launched or committed to R290 models for 2025–2026. Most R32 systems from Samsung, Daikin, and LG remain common — ask specifically about refrigerant type when getting quotes. For a full brand-by-brand breakdown, see our guide to the best air source heat pumps in the UK.

Good to Know

If longevity and regulatory certainty matter to you, ask for an R290 system. You may pay a small premium upfront, but you avoid refrigerant supply risks over a 15–20 year system lifespan.

8. Factor in Hot Water

If you’re replacing a combi boiler, you’ll need a hot water cylinder (£500–£1,500 extra). Heat pumps heat water more slowly, so cylinder sizing matters.

One of the most commonly overlooked costs in heat pump installations is the hot water cylinder. If you currently have a combi boiler, you have no hot water cylinder — the boiler heats water on demand. Heat pumps cannot do this efficiently. They heat water over a longer period and store it in a well-insulated cylinder, ready for use.

Combi boiler conversion considerations: Switching from a combi to a heat pump requires installing a hot water cylinder and potentially a buffer tank. This requires space (typically a 200–300 litre cylinder, which is roughly 1.8m tall and 600mm wide) and additional pipework. If your property is a flat or has limited cupboard space, discuss this with installers early — it can affect feasibility.

Cylinder sizing: As a general rule, allow 40–50 litres of stored hot water per person. A family of 4 typically needs a 200–250 litre cylinder. Undersizing the cylinder is a common mistake — it results in running out of hot water before the cylinder has time to reheat, which forces the system to use an immersion heater (pure electric resistance, highly inefficient) as backup.

Legionella protection: Because heat pumps heat water to 50–55°C (lower than a boiler’s 60–70°C), most systems are programmed to run a weekly “legionella cycle” using the immersion heater to bring the tank to 60°C and kill any bacteria. This is automatic and uses a small amount of extra electricity (roughly 1–2 kWh per week). Make sure your installer configures this correctly during commissioning.

Good to Know

Budget £500–£1,500 for a hot water cylinder if switching from a combi boiler. Size it generously — a cylinder that is too small forces expensive immersion heater use and defeats the efficiency gains of your heat pump.

9. Switch to a Heat Pump Electricity Tariff

Dedicated heat pump tariffs from EDF, Octopus, and others offer off-peak rates as low as 13–15p/kWh — saving up to £570 per year compared to standard rates.

The economics of a heat pump depend heavily on the price you pay for electricity. At the current Ofgem price cap rate of approximately 24p/kWh, a heat pump with a SCOP of 3.0 costs roughly 8p per kWh of heat delivered — comparable to a gas boiler at current gas prices. But with a dedicated heat pump tariff offering off-peak rates of 13–15p/kWh, the same heat pump delivers heat at 4–5p/kWh, significantly cheaper than gas.

Top tariffs and their heat pump rates (February 2026):

SupplierTariff NameOff-Peak RateOff-Peak WindowSmart Meter Required
Octopus EnergyCosy Octopus~13p/kWh4–7am + afternoon slotsYes (Octopus compatible)
EDF EnergyHeatwise~14.5p/kWhOff-peak 7 hours overnightYes
Scottish PowerHeat Pump Tariff~15p/kWhOvernight windowYes
E.ON NextHeat Pump Plus~15.5p/kWhOvernight 6 hoursYes

Smart meter requirement: All dedicated heat pump tariffs require a smart meter. If you do not already have one, your supplier will install it free of charge — but allow 4–8 weeks lead time. Arrange your smart meter upgrade as part of your installation planning, not as an afterthought.

When to switch: Switch tariffs after installation, not before. Heat pump tariffs may have higher peak-rate charges than standard tariffs — if you are still running on a gas boiler, switching early could increase your bills. Time the tariff change for the same week your heat pump is commissioned.

Good to Know

Switching to a dedicated heat pump tariff is one of the most impactful steps you can take post-installation. At 13–15p/kWh off-peak rates, your running costs could be 30–40% lower than on a standard variable tariff.

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10. Plan for Noise

Modern ASHPs produce 42–55 dB at 1 metre — similar to a fridge. But placement matters: keep the unit away from bedroom windows and consider Quiet Mark certified models.

Noise is frequently cited as a concern by homeowners considering heat pumps, often amplified by negative coverage in the tabloid press. The reality is more nuanced. Modern heat pumps are significantly quieter than units from five years ago, and most homeowners find them unobtrusive in day-to-day life — but poor placement can turn an inoffensive appliance into a genuine problem.

Noise levels in context: A typical ASHP at 1 metre produces 42–55 dB during normal operation. For comparison: a normal conversation is approximately 60 dB, a refrigerator is 40–45 dB, and a quiet library is around 40 dB. At 5 metres, the sound drops significantly. The issue is not loudness but tonality — the low-frequency hum of the compressor can be more noticeable than the decibel rating suggests if the unit vibrates against a wall or is positioned under a bedroom window.

Planning permission and permitted development: In England and Wales, most air source heat pump installations qualify as permitted development (no planning permission required) provided the unit: produces no more than 42 dB at 1 metre from a neighbour’s window, is not installed on a wall or roof fronting a highway, and only one unit is installed per property. In Scotland and Northern Ireland, different rules apply — check with your local planning authority if in doubt. Units that exceed 42 dB may still be installed with prior approval.

The 1 metre boundary rule: Heat pump units must be sited at least 1 metre from the property boundary. This is a planning requirement, not a noise guideline. It is designed to prevent units being placed directly adjacent to neighbouring properties — but 1 metre is not necessarily enough to prevent noise nuisance if the neighbour has their bedroom window nearby. Be a good neighbour: site the unit thoughtfully.

Quiet Mark certified models: The Quiet Mark programme independently tests products for low noise. Several heat pump models carry the Quiet Mark accreditation, including the Vaillant aroTHERM Plus and selected Mitsubishi Ecodan models. If noise is a concern — particularly in terraced or semi-detached properties with close neighbours — specify a Quiet Mark model in your quotes.

Good to Know

Choose placement carefully: away from bedroom windows (yours and your neighbours’), not against an internal wall that will amplify vibration, and positioned so the air outlet does not blow directly toward a boundary. Good placement matters more than decibel ratings.

11. Ask About Warranty Tiers

Standard warranties are typically 2–5 years, but most brands offer extensions to 7 years through accredited installers. Always confirm warranty tier before signing.

The warranty on your heat pump unit is one of the most important — and most overlooked — terms in any installation contract. Heat pump compressors are the most expensive component to replace (£1,500–£4,000) and are the most common cause of claims. A comprehensive warranty that covers the compressor for 7 years provides significant financial protection over the medium term.

Standard vs extended warranty tiers: Most manufacturers offer a base warranty of 2–5 years on parts and labour. Extended warranties of 7 years (and in some cases 10 years) are available but typically conditional on the installation being carried out by an accredited installer and the system being serviced annually. The Vaillant aroTHERM Plus, for example, offers a 7-year warranty when installed by a Vaillant Advance partner and registered within 30 days of commissioning.

BrandStandard WarrantyExtended (via accredited installer)Annual Service Required
Vaillant aroTHERM Plus5 years7 years (Advance partners)Yes
Mitsubishi Ecodan2 years5 years (registered)Yes
Daikin Altherma2 years5 years (D1 scheme)Yes
Samsung EHS2 years5 years (Samsung registered)Yes
Panasonic Aquarea3 years5 years (registered)Yes

Benchmark Logbook: The MCS Benchmark Commissioning Checklist (commonly called the Benchmark Logbook) must be completed and signed by your installer at the time of commissioning. This is the document you will need to access warranty claims and to demonstrate the system was installed correctly. Without it, warranty claims can be refused. Ask your installer to hand over the completed Benchmark Logbook on the day the installation is finished.

Annual service cost: Budget £150–£300 per year for an annual heat pump service. This is both a warranty condition for extended warranties and a legal requirement for systems containing F-Gas refrigerants (those with more than 5 tonnes CO² equivalent). Most installers offer service contracts — compare these as part of your quote process, not as an afterthought.

Good to Know

Always choose an accredited installer to maximise your warranty term. Get the Benchmark Logbook handed over on commissioning day. Set a calendar reminder for your annual service — missing one can void your extended warranty.

12. Don’t Forget the Controls

Weather compensation is the single most important control feature — it automatically adjusts output based on outdoor temperature, improving efficiency by 10–15%.

The controls on a heat pump system are not an afterthought — they are a significant determinant of real-world efficiency. A well-designed heat pump running on a poorly configured control strategy can underperform by 20–30% compared to the same unit running on optimised controls. Understanding what the controls do (and what to ask for) is one of the least-discussed but most impactful decisions you will make.

Weather compensation explained: Weather compensation is a control strategy where the heat pump adjusts its flow temperature based on the outdoor temperature. On a mild 12°C day, the heat pump might deliver water at 35°C. On a freezing −5°C day, it ramps up to 45°C. This continuous adjustment keeps the heat pump running in its most efficient operating range rather than always running at maximum flow temperature. Most modern heat pump controllers include weather compensation as a feature, but it often needs to be correctly configured and “tuned” to your specific home by the installer during commissioning.

Smart app features: Most premium heat pumps now include companion apps (Vaillant myVAILLANT, Mitsubishi Ecodan MELCloud, Daikin Onecta) that allow remote monitoring, scheduling, and in some cases remote diagnostics for your installer. These are worth having — the ability to check your system’s running hours, electricity consumption, and COP gives you early warning of any performance degradation.

Thermostat settings for heat pumps: Heat pumps work very differently to gas boilers when it comes to thermostats. Turning the thermostat down by 4°C at night and up again in the morning (common practice with a gas boiler) is highly inefficient with a heat pump. The system uses more electricity to recover temperature than it saves by reducing the setpoint overnight. The recommended approach is a maximum 2°C setback overnight and a “set it and forget it” strategy — letting the heat pump maintain a steady temperature rather than chasing large swings. Ask your installer to set up a simple, low-setback schedule during commissioning and resist the temptation to manage it like a boiler thermostat.

Good to Know

Weather compensation is not optional — confirm it is enabled and correctly configured before the installer leaves. Download the manufacturer’s app and check your COP monthly for the first year. Steady low temperature beats boiler-style on–off control every time.

Buyer’s Checklist: All 12 Tips at a Glance

Use this checklist before signing any heat pump installation contract. The three most critical actions are: get 3 quotes, insulate first, and confirm MCS certification.

#TipAction Required
1Get at least 3 quotesCompare total cost, equipment, warranty, and timeline across 3 MCS-certified installers 
2Verify MCS certificationCheck every installer at mcscertified.com before signing 
3Insulate firstComplete loft and cavity wall insulation before heat pump survey 
4Understand BUS timelinePlan to install before March 2027 to capture both grant and 0% VAT 
5Don’t oversizeDemand a BS EN 12831 room-by-room heat loss calculation 
6Check radiatorsGet written list of radiator upgrades needed and include in total budget 
7Choose R290 refrigerantAsk specifically whether system uses R290, R32, or R410A 
8Factor in hot water cylinderBudget £500–£1,500 if replacing a combi boiler; size at 50L per person 
9Switch electricity tariffArrange smart meter installation; switch to heat pump tariff on commissioning day 
10Plan for noiseSite unit away from bedroom windows; check permitted development rules 
11Confirm warranty tierUse an accredited installer; get Benchmark Logbook on commissioning day 
12Set up controls correctlyConfirm weather compensation is enabled; set max 2°C overnight setback 
Good to Know

The three actions that will have the biggest impact on your heat pump experience are: (1) getting 3 quotes from verified MCS-certified installers, (2) insulating your home before the heat loss survey, and (3) switching to a dedicated heat pump electricity tariff on the day of commissioning. Everything else builds on these foundations.

Laura Bennet

Laura Bennet

Home Energy & Sustainability Editor

Laura leads coverage on home energy, heating, and sustainable living. With over 12 years in the UK energy sector, she writes about boilers, solar panels, insulation, and eco-friendly upgrades that reduce household costs.

Tom Reynolds

Reviewed by

Tom Reynolds

Business Energy Specialist

FAQs

What should I ask an air source heat pump installer before hiring them?

Key questions to ask include: Is your company MCS-certified (not just the engineer — the company)? What Heat Loss Calculation method do you use (BS EN 12831 is the standard)? Who designs the system — an engineer or a salesperson? What sized buffer tank, if any, do you recommend and why? What radiator upgrades do I need, if any, and why? Who handles the Boiler Upgrade Scheme application — you or me? What happens if the system underperforms in the first winter? Answers reveal whether you’re dealing with a competent technical installer or primarily a sales operation.

Does the Boiler Upgrade Scheme cover heat pump replacement as well as new installations?

Yes — the £7,500 Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant applies to both new heat pump installations and replacing an existing heat pump with a newer model. It also applies to replacing a gas boiler, oil boiler, or electric storage heater with an air source heat pump. The property must have a valid Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) with no outstanding recommendations for loft or cavity wall insulation. You cannot claim BUS for a like-for-like gas boiler replacement or to upgrade to a more efficient gas boiler — the switch to a low-carbon heating system is required.

How noisy is an air source heat pump, and will my neighbours complain?

Modern air source heat pumps operate at around 40–55 dB at one metre — similar to a dishwasher or quiet conversation. At three to five metres, noise typically drops to 35–45 dB. UK planning guidance recommends siting units at least one metre from a property boundary and avoiding positions directly adjacent to bedroom windows. The Microgeneration Installation Standard MIS 3005 requires installers to assess noise impact before installation. Noise is rarely a practical problem with quality modern units from Vaillant, Mitsubishi, or Daikin when properly sited. Check your specific unit’s sound power rating (Lwa) before purchasing.

What happens if my radiators are not big enough for a heat pump?

A heat pump runs at lower flow temperatures than a gas boiler (typically 35–45°C vs 65–80°C), so undersized radiators may not heat a room adequately. A competent installer performs heat loss calculations room by room to identify which radiators need upgrading before installation. Radiator replacement typically costs £200–£600 per radiator including labour. Alternatively, larger low-temperature radiators or underfloor heating can be specified for new rooms. Skipping radiator assessment is the most common cause of heat pump underperformance complaints — treat it as a non-negotiable part of the specification process.

Is it worth getting a heat pump if I'm planning to sell my house in 2–3 years?

The financial case is weaker for a short ownership period — payback periods for heat pumps are typically 8–15 years without a grant. However, with the £7,500 Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant, net installation cost falls to £4,000–8,000, and an EPC upgrade can increase property value by 2–5%. Buyers increasingly prioritise low-carbon heating as lenders offer green mortgage incentives. If your boiler is failing and you plan to sell, a heat pump may be preferable to paying for a like-for-like boiler replacement that adds no EPC value and will need to be replaced again by 2035 anyway under likely future regulations.

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